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How to Hang Your Artwork
How you hang your artwork can make a huge difference.
THE GALLERY STANDARD
the center of the piece should be at eye level : 57 inches. No matter the size of the piece or the wall, this will feel right because it matches average height. ( I’m 5'10" and prefer the 60 inch mark, but do what feels right for you) Overall - between 57"–63".
STEP 1: TOOLS: Tape measure, PENCIL, LEVEL, HAMMER + NAILs. FOR SMALL, LIGHTWEIGHT PIECES (8X10 OR SMALLER) : use a DRILL, for larger pieces : ANCHORS AND SCREWS. STEP 2: HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENT To center a piece on the wall: Measure width of wall Divide width by 2 Draw a vertical line on the wall ( | ) at the center point, right at your eye level Weird Wall? Light switch or pipe in the way? In most cases, measure from edge to edge and ignore wall interr uptions. Just be consistent on both sides. If there’s a big pipe or something on one side, center the piece between the edge of that dumb pipe and the other wall to make it feel balanced.
STEP 3: VERTICAL MEASUREMENT Bear with me, this is the math portion of our day. A. Divide the height of your piece by 2 B. Measure the distance from the top of your piece to the hanger Note: If your piece has a hanging wire, pull it up and taut (into a “frown” instead of its resting “smile”) and measure it from the center to get an accurate number. C. Measure your center point: 57” is the standard Then, do the math! A - B + C(57) = Hammer here! Draw a horizontal line ( — ) through your vertical line to make a ( + ) on the wall. Now you’re ready to nail/screw!
STEP 4: HANG IT! When in doubt, go with a heavy anchor/screw combo for common drywall. But I always recommend consulting a pro. The size and weight of your piece + the type of surface = the best hanging hardware. Bring measurements and type with you to the hardware store and someone can help you choose the best type of anchor/screw for your space.
Common tricky surfaces below.
Plaster walls: don’t try a hammer and nail, you’ll need some special screws + hardware to prevent big holes. Here’s a handy how-to video. Brick or stone: you’ll need masonry bits and proper screws and anchors for that material. Here’s a handy video for tips. Really heavy stuff: this is a great how-to from
On a stairwell / up really high: hire a pro. It is typically $100 - $200 to have someone come out and is well worth the peace of mind that the piece is hung securely. See my list of local installers here.
Gallery wall: here’s a great how-to Tip for Damage - free hanging: Command strips are an excellent alternative for damage-free hanging, just consult the weight limits carefully.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR ARTWORK
So You bought some art! Congratulations on being awesome. You may wonder if there’s any special care required for your art? Here is a list of FAQ’s. Feel free to contact me with any questions. SUNLIGHT AND FADING Unlike our plant babies, art doesn’t fare well in super sun. Over time direct sunlight can fade or damage the piece, so try not to place a cherished piece on an always-bright wall. HUMIDITY A good rule of thumb is to leave your most valuable pieces out of bathroom and kitchen areas that experience a variety of humidity (and marinara splatters). Over time this can damage or warp your art. Canvases and canvas prints are stretched around a wooden frame, so they are susceptible to dramatic changes in humidity as well. If your home has heating and AC and you don’t live in an incredibly humid climate, you’re otherwise good to go. HOW DO I FRAME THIS? Paper prints: I try to create in standard sizes wherever possible, so you can look for off-the-shelf frames from places like Target or Michaels. I’ve compiled a list of local KC framing resources here. If you aren’t local, I recommend going with a local shop whenever possible, because they’re the best. Canvas prints: I typically recommend a float-frame style for these. It finishes the piece but the frame does not sit against the piece and gives it a bit of dimension. CLEANING AND DUSTING? Originals: you may gently dust the front and sides with a dry feather duster. Do not rub or wipe across the piece with your hands, and obviously don’t use anything wet or spray anything onto the piece, as it may damage the paint or erase lines of ink and graphite on the piece, as well as dimpling the canvas. Canvas prints: same applies, you can gently dust it with a feather duster but don’t rub the surface with cloth, and don’t spray anything on it as it could damage the image and dimple the canvas Framed glass prints: you may clean the glass with Windex or other glass-suitable cleaners Acrylic and metal prints: treat it like your TV or your eyeglasses and wipe very gently with a microfiber cloth, the surface can be scratched otherwise I’M MOVING, HELP! Pro: If you can have a pro pack up your stuff, definitely go that route. They can pick it up, and either deliver it or pack it to ship to another city. DIY: I recommend putting cardboard corners onto the piece and then wrapping it in brown paper. In transit, try to lay it flat (nothing above or below) or lean it against a flat surface with gentle supports to keep it from moving around. Your primary concern with canvases is anything poking in and tearing or dimpling it. Brown paper will help to protect the surface from scratches. Multiples: A good rule of thumb is to pack everything individually, and then move them face-to-face and back-to-back. That way, the hanging hardware won’t scratch the front of a piece. INSURANCE RIDERS? I am happy to provide an appraisal of your artwork so you may inform your insurance agent of the value and decide whether a rider for artwork is needed. Contact me to set this up.
